Wood Machinery Advice

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Pedro_Hernandez
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Wood Machinery Advice

Postby Pedro_Hernandez » Sat Feb 11, 2012 11:43 am

Hi Guy's

This is one for all you wod machinsts and DT Technician out there.

I'm having problems getting a square cut on our Wadkin Bursgreen 10" AGS tilting arbour saw at School.

I'm baffled as the saw blade is square to the table and the mitre slide is also square to the blade and the fence, which is also square to the table .The saw blade is also running true and I stripped the saw down yesterday and cleared all dust/resin and residue from the rise and fall/tilting mechanisms.

However I'm still getting a back cut , in effect over a cross cut using 150mm pine it's about 0.8 -1mm out !. Any help would be much appreciated.

Peter
HPC1290 User HPC 3020 Owner

PhillyDee
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Re: Wood Machinery Advice

Postby PhillyDee » Sat Feb 11, 2012 12:29 pm

It could be play in the bearings or arbour?
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An ex LS3020 user now playing with an LS6840PRO (60W) and an LS1290PRO (80W)

Daven
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Re: Wood Machinery Advice

Postby Daven » Sat Feb 11, 2012 12:39 pm

I would check bearings as Phil has said - debris between the arbour flange and blade is another posibility as is a warped blade, although 1mm is quite a bit for that.

Is the kerf a lot wider than the blade?

Best

Dave
Using two LS3060's and an ex 3020 user
Please note I am not employed by HPC, any advice or recomendations I give are based on my own experience and are not necessarily the same as HPC's. First point of contact on any hardware issues should be with HPC

Pedro_Hernandez
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Re: Wood Machinery Advice

Postby Pedro_Hernandez » Sat Feb 11, 2012 3:52 pm

Hi

Thank's, I'll check bearing and arbour when I'm back at School, though when I stripped and cleaned around the arbour spindle and bearing everything looked in order. This is a very old well used School machine so one might suspect worn bearing's/arbour.
I've checked the blade with a diali ndicator and it's within tolerance and the kerf isn't wider than the blade.

The only other thing I could attribute it to would be the mitre slide, looks like it's had some work on it to ensure a good fit, unless the crude ground centre punch marks all along one side of the slide are normal ofcourse !. With it locked at 90 degrees and firmly in the slot, if I firmly hold it will move side to slide about 0.5 to 0.6mm if I apply pressure to eithier the left and right.

Over the Holidays I'll come back and find that the maintenance team have used it and abused it, even had to pick up the cross cut mitre slide off the floor before now !. Dont get me started with the planer thicknesser !, had to put a new set of blades on this term as someone decided to plane some old worktops with brass screws left in !.

We use TCT blades and thier all square and no tips missing yet the same problem occurs regardles of which blade I try. It would be nice if all I needed was a new blade for a quick fix, however thing's are never that simple !. Unless ofcourse all my blades are dull !.

Peter
HPC1290 User HPC 3020 Owner

bigz
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Re: Wood Machinery Advice

Postby bigz » Sun Feb 26, 2012 1:16 am

Unless it is a proper sliding table(thats running parallel to the saw blade) you are not going to get a good result. I take it your using something that runs in the groove instead?

The cheapest solution is to make a Sled:-

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=69t6MFCU ... re=related

Just make sure the saw channel is parallel to the blade. The sled can be made larger than the one shown here plus you can add various jigs to it for angles or even tenons. Don't forget to put a guard on the sled as you will have to remove the guard from the riving knife for it to work. The riving knife will also need to be lower than the top of the blade for it to work with the sled.


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